What's Behind the Elusiveness of "Plus Size Vintage"?

My main goal when opening my business, Carmine & Hayworth, was to open the arena of vintage fashion to EVERYONE! Especially those who didn't think vintage was made for their body type (that used to be me).
When I started collecting vintage clothing I would collect dresses/ pieces that I WISHED I could fit into because I didn't think vintage pieces existed for someone like me who doesn't have a tiny waist or hips. It wasn't until I really started doing my research that I found a whole new world, of what I like to call, "Size Inclusive Vintage". Living in North Dakota, the world of vintage, especially vintage fashion, could be scarce. I had to SCOUR Etsy, Ebay and wherever I could outside of the state to find these elusive pieces. Once I taught myself how to track these pieces down, I was not only HOOKED, but I felt that I had a whole new appreciation for these clothes.

1950's Knit, Moss Green, Wiggle Dress by "Snyderknit of California Sportswear"

The question always arises when I'm fitting clients, 

"Why is it so hard to find these pieces in my size?" 

These are my top three reasons based on my own experience:

1. Some were handmade

You may ask, "Well if it's handmade shouldn't there be more of them?" Well yes and no, actually. Unlike today, many people opted to make their owns clothes in decades past. It was more cost efficient and why not? Can't find an outfit in your size or style? No problem! I'll just make it to my specifications! 

I've found, in the handmade, curvier pieces I own, that the construction is good, but not good enough to last for long periods of time. They're usually unlined, unhemmed, not of the sturdiest materials. This makes for pieces that will last for what they're intended for, but could self destruct at any moment.  This doesn't mean ALL handmade pieces were like this, but the majority I've come across have been. 

1960's handmade Bubblegum Pink Wiggle Dress. Great on the outside, but a bit shredded inside.

2. Shapewear

I feel like I've really tried to drive the point home about the fit of certain vintage garments designed with shapewear intended. Just remember that in the 1950's and 1960's, wearing a girdle, bustier, or any kind of shapewear was expected. It was considered radical to go out in public without proper foundation garments. Think of it like the revolt against the corset in the 1920's and how shocking that was for people of that era! 

I own pieces, mainly wiggle dresses, that when I put them on without a cincher or bustier, they just don't look right. The cut and shape are both wayyyyy off! Then I try it on with the undergarments and the dress comes to life! They're not the most comfortable, but sometimes they're a necessity when it comes to making a vintage piece fit the way it was intended to.

via Pinterest

3. Hang on for dear life!

This reason is purely my personal opinion! There are those of us that find these elusive, curvy pieces and NEVER let go of them! This is true for a lot of garments, old or new, where if they fit you perfectly, curves and all, you hang on to them! This is especially true for vintage garments. With that said, they don't circulate on the market very often.
I recently purchased a lot of size inclusive vintage pieces from a woman who had amassed a large collection of them. I believe she intended to sell them, but never got around to it. The fact that I found this treasure trove of what she described as "Plus Size Vintage" proved they they're out there, but some people really hang on to them.

I came across a video that I wish I would've seen when I started off collecting vintage garments when I was longer.  It's an article titled, "Why It's So Hard to Find Plus-Size Vintage".  The main point of the article is YES Plus Size people existed in the 1950's & 60's and NO not everyone was a size 4 or under. There's also a nice video to accompany the article too!

Racked Article


I also wanted to include a link to a past exhibition at the FIT Museum titled, "The Body: Fashion and Physique". This exhibition delves into the evolution of fashion in terms of how it has been molded into society's changing views on body shape. I really loved that it ended featuring a custom made gown by Christian Siriano for the amazing Leslie Jones!

FIT Museum Article

Christian Siriano's Fall 2017 Runway Show

I mean SERIOUSLY! Let's take a moment for this Pastel Pink Power Suit with Black Bustier! I'd wear the hell out of that!